Vaccination

It is recommended that puppies/kittens receive a series of vaccinations, about 3 to 4 weeks apart, starting when they are 6 to 8 weeks old, with the last booster at minimum 16 weeks old.

They generally need 3 vaccination shots at 2, 3 and 4 months of age. 

Why do they need so many boosters? 

As the maternal antibodies fade, the booster vaccinations provide a boost to the puppy/kitten’s own immune system, to provide enough antibodies to guard against the viruses. 

The vaccine is stimulating both maternal antibodies and the puppy/kitten’s antibodies but as the maternal antibodies fade off, the protection from the virus just from the puppy/kitten’s own immune system is not enough to give proper protection to them. You can see it as the maternal antibodies being stimulated and ‘dies off’ after a while, leaving a not-so-stimulated or not as strong a puppy/kitten immunity against the viruses. He can’t develop his own antibodies to disease antigens until his mother’s antibodies have faded from his system. 

The series of puppy/kitten vaccinations is to reduce the size of the “window of opportunity” when the mom’s antibodies fade (leaving the puppy/kitten unprotected) and the next vaccine is given, thus reducing the chances that he comes into contact with the virus when he is unprotected.

Are you over-vaccinating them with 3 to 4 vaccines? 

It is not about the number of vaccinations that determine whether your puppy will be fully protected against the viruses. It is about the age of the puppy/kitten when each vaccine is given. 

There is a possibility that the mother’s antibodies faded early, and the first vaccine was given at 8 weeks, and he developed his own immunity against the pathogens. In this case, he doesn’t actually need any more boosters. However, nobody can be sure, so he is given additional vaccinations every three to four weeks until he’s about 16 weeks old. It’s more than he needs, but at least he was protected.

Another scenario would be the mother’s antibodies only faded fully at 14 weeks old. The first vaccine was given at 4 weeks old, second vaccine at 8 weeks old and third vaccine at 12 weeks old. But some people may think, “Oh, my puppy had 3 vaccines already, it is probably enough to protect him. I’ll bring him to his first doggie park this week!” The maternal antibodies may have partially faded, leaving the puppy/kitten with a weakened immunity against the virus and this increases the chance of them contracting the disease. 

Are you under-vaccinating them with only 2 vaccines?

Some puppies/kittens may develop a cold between the series of vaccinations. The veterinarian may suggest that the vaccination be postponed till they have recovered and are fit for the vaccine. It is weighing the risk of vaccination with the weakened immunity (having a cold) versus the exposure risks to the viruses. So it is alright that the first vaccine is done at 8 weeks old and the second (and final) is done at 16 weeks old. 

As long as you keep your little ones indoors and have no interactions with other cats or dogs, it’ll reduce the risk of exposure of the viruses to them. Thoroughly disinfect yourself, wash your hands, change out to a fresh set of clothing before touching or playing with them, especially when you have interacted with other dogs or cats outside. 

Preventions

What should puppies and kittens be prevented against? 

They should be prevented against heartworm (rare in cats), fleas, ticks, mites and intestinal worms. Prevention against these organisms can help your little baby companions grow up healthy and happy! With their underdeveloped immune system, fleas, ticks, mites and intestinal worms may cause more severe symptoms compared to adult dogs or cats. These organisms can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, fever and, in severe cases, anaemia and death. Heartworm disease can be life-threatening, only showing symptoms at a late stage of the disease (a few years after infection), but by then, it may be too late. 

What is heartworm disease? 

It is a life-threatening disease caused by a blood-borne parasite and more prevalent in dogs, compared to cats. It is transmitted through mosquito bites. When a mosquito bites an infected dog and ingests the microfilaria that live in the small vessels of the infected dog’s bloodstream, it becomes an intermediate host transmitting the infective larvae to other dogs through its bites. These infective larvae migrate into the bloodstream and move to the right heart chamber and adjacent blood vessels, maturing to adults within 6 to 7 months. 

The lifespan of adult heartworms is about 5 years. Many dogs/cats do not show signs of infection until a late stage of the infection when heart function is compromised. 

Cats would rarely become infected with heartworm. Heartworms in cats do not survive to the adult stage. Cats with adult heartworms typically have just one to three worms, and many cats affected by heartworms have no adult worms. However, even immature worms can cause real damage in cats known as heartworm associated respiratory disease (HARD). 

All heartworm prevention only kills off early stage larvae and microfilariae, not adult heartworms. Thus, it is essential to start heartworm prevention early, as early as 6 weeks old. However, always speak to a veterinarian to find out which heartworm prevention product is best for your little companion’s age and weight. 

Some examples of heartworm prevention products available: 

• Nexgard Spectra – oral (for dogs)
• Simparica Trio – oral (for dogs)
• Heartgard – oral (for dogs)
• Revolution – topical (for dogs and cats)
• Proheart – injectable (for dogs)

Always speak to your veterinarian regarding heartworm prevention! Never get heartworm prevention products online without your vet’s prescription! Severe allergic reaction to the medication may occur if your dog is positive for heartworm and given heartworm prevention medication.  

Fleas, ticks and mites prevention

Fleas, ticks and mites are intermittent hosts, spreading infectious diseases. Besides causing itchiness and secondary infection, they can spread blood-borne disease. For example, tapeworms can be spread by flea bites and lyme disease can be spread by tick bites. It can then cause severe vomiting, diarrhoea, fever, anaemia and even death. 

Fleas, ticks and mites prevention can be started as early as 7 to 8 weeks of age. Nonetheless, always ask your veterinarian on which prevention is suitable for your pet’s age and weight!

Some examples of fleas, ticks, mites prevention available:

• Nexgard Spectra/Nexgard – oral (for dogs)
• Simparica Trio/Simparica – oral (for dogs)
• Bravecto – oral (for dogs)
• Frontline – topical (for dogs and cats)
• Revolution – topical (for dogs and cats)

Deworming for intestinal worms

Deworming is only to clear and kill off intestinal worms. Most deworming medication is indicated as broad-spectrum so it can kill off a wide range of worms. Common intestinal worms in dogs are roundworm, hookworm, tapeworm and whipworm. Common intestinal worms in cats are tapeworm and roundworm. 

Puppies/kittens should be dewormed starting 2 weeks old (puppies weighing at least 500g) for every 2 weeks until 12 weeks old, then monthly until 6 months old. This is to provide continuous treatment and prevention until they are at least 6 months old and have a stronger immune system. Depending on the dog or cat’s lifestyle and diet, deworming may be continued every 1-3 months subsequently for effective protection. So if your breeder said that your puppy is ‘dewormed’, it does not mean it is fully dewormed! 

Nutrition

When should puppies/kittens be weaned off?

Weaning occurs at weeks 3 to 4 for puppies and weeks 6 to 8 for kittens. During this time, the eruption of the deciduous teeth would occur too. Solid wet puppy/kitten food should be slowly introduced into their diet in the span of 1 to 2 weeks. Water can be introduced during this time. From about 4 months of age, you may introduce dry kibbles or more textured food. Weaning and food transition can take time, so be patient and celebrate the little progress your little one is making!

What food should you give? 

There are many debates out there on what a good puppy/kitten diet should be. I’m not going to go so in-depth into these debates because there is just too much to talk about. I’m not an expert at this, there are many other blogs online which you can learn more about animal nutrition. NutritionRVN is a blog I highly recommend!

Puppies/kittens before they are weaned should be drinking their mother’s milk only. If their mother is not present, choosing good quality milk replacer such as 

Feeding your puppy/kitten a good quality (complete and balanced) commercial diet is essential and highly recommended, especially during their crucial time of growth. I must emphasise again, it must be a puppy/kitten diet, not an adult diet. Exposing your little one to both dry kibbles and wet food is important. It allows them to get used to both and prevents them from rejecting the other type of food in case a transition is needed in the future. Both dry and wet food have their benefits and limitations. For example, dry food is better for dental health and cheaper while wet food is more palatable, has fewer calories and is better for cats with kidney issues. Specific brand recommendations are Hill’s Science diet, Royal Canin and Purina Pro Plan. However, there are also many brands out there that provide the right nutritional balance and are recommended by animal nutritionists.

Due to the high energy needs of pets during development, diets that support growth are generally higher in fat and protein than adult diets. Puppies/kittens require a higher protein diet as they grow and develop. Dietary fat provides not only essential fatty acids but also twice the amount of metabolic energy per gram than do protein and carbohydrates, allowing for smaller amounts to be fed in order to meet energy requirements. 

Treats should only make up less than 10% of the total amount of food they are getting. Avoid treats containing milk products as they are unable to digest them, which can lead to diarrhoea. Use low calorie treats specifically for training so that you can maximise the amount for more training!

If you wish to make your own home cooked food for your little ones, you can try balanceit.com. You can engage an animal nutritionist who can help create a well-balanced diet plan for your dog or cat! 

Raw diet is generally not recommended due to its many disadvantages such as nutritional inadequacies and bacterial contamination. 

How much food to give and what is the frequency of feeding?

Newborn puppies/kittens, up to 1 week old, should be fed every 2-3 hours. Small breed puppies should be limited to 10-15ml per feeding during their 1st week of life to prevent diarrhoea. By 2 weeks old, they should be fed every 4-6 hours. Once they are 3 weeks old, they can be fed every 4 to 6 hours. Furthermore, commercial milk replacer labels will indicate the daily intake amount to give to your little one. Remember to always warm the milk to about 35 to 38 degree celsius before bottle feeding.  

During the first 4 months of development, energy needs are two times higher than those of a mature adult of the same body mass. This metabolic energy requirement reduces gradually after the first 4 months. From ages 4 to 6 months, feeding frequency should be 3 times a day. After 6 months, feeding twice a day would be sufficient. 

Each puppy/kitten is different, and their calorie requirements can range depending on their metabolic rate. Commercial food would label the amount of food to give per day, you may use that as a guide initially. 

The best method to determine patient energy needs is to calculate calorie requirements and monitor the patient’s body condition score throughout growth. You may learn about body condition scoring from the veterinary staff at your veterinary clinic, I’m sure they will be more than happy to help you! Ideally, the ribs should be easily palpable but not visible, waist should be visible and have minimal abdominal fat. All in all, maintaining your little ones on a good body condition score (4 or 5) can prevent aplastic obesity and maximise growth rates. 

When to stop feeding puppy/kitten food? 

In cats and small to medium-sized dogs, adult body weight is reached between 9 and 10 months of age and skeletal maturity, between 9 and 12 months. Large- and giant-breed dogs continue to grow until age 18 months, reaching skeletal maturity between 18 and 24 months. You may start transitioning to a good quality adult diet once they have reached maturity. When in doubt, always speak to your veterinarian!

Training

Training can begin as early as when they turn 7-8 weeks of age. For puppies, you may start teaching them simple commands such as “sit”, “down” and “stay.” For kittens, no one is stopping you from teaching them these simple commands too! You should start getting them used to being handled by different people and in different areas such as their paws, ears and teeth. Introduction of teeth brushing, bathing, ear cleaning (for dogs only, cats rarely need their ears cleaned) and nail clipping is also important. It is so that these routine practises would not be stressful, but in fact can be enjoyable for them. You may also start leash training and potty training. Remember, positive reinforcement is more sustainable in the long term and prevents aggressive defensive behaviour in the future. Firmly saying “no” and ignoring undesirable behaviour is a way to discourage bad behaviour. 

As these puppies/kittens may be teething using this time, never offer your finger/hand as a chew toy, instead grab and offer a substitute toy whenever they try to chew your fingers. 

They can start socialising with other dogs/cats only when they are fully vaccinated. Introduce them to dogs/cats with good temperament so that your little ones do not get traumatised from their first few interactions. 

On a last note, training your little ones during this crucial time is extremely enjoyable and memorable. Don’t forget to celebrate their little wins each day and appreciate the time you have with them!

Sterilisation (spay/neuter)

Spaying a dog/cat refers to the removal of a female dog’s reproductive organs, while neutering refers to the procedure that’s done for males. 

When a female dog is spayed, the veterinarian removes her ovaries and uterus, this procedure is known as ovariohysterectomy. The veterinarian may also remove just the ovaries (ovariectomy). Both surgeries are equally safe and effective. Spaying renders a female dog no longer able to reproduce and eliminates her heat cycle. 

When neutering a dog, both testicles and their associated structures are removed. This procedure is also known as castration. Neutering renders a male dog unable to reproduce. 

Benefits

On a wider scale, sterilisation reduces the number of unwanted litters and thus reduces the number of strays that are abandoned and left at shelters. 

Sterilisation also brings specific benefits for your pets. It allows them to live longer, healthier lives, and reduce unwanted behaviours. 

Sterilisation prevents/eliminates some of the following illnesses:

• Mammary cancer
• Ovarian cancer 
• Testicular cancer
• Pyometra (infection of the uterus)

Unwanted behaviours eliminated:

• Marking
• Vocalising (cats)
• Humping 
• Aggression 

Cons

Prostate cancer and other orthopaedic conditions are slightly more common in sterilised dogs/cats. However, the benefits of sterilising your dog/cat far outweigh the cons. 

When should you spay/neuter your dog/cat? 

For female dogs/cats, spay should be best done before their first heat. Spaying before the first heat cycle greatly reduces their risk of developing dog mammary (breast) cancer. 

For cats, the optimal age to be spayed or neutered is 4 to 6 months old. 

For dogs, the optimal age to be spayed or neutered is greatly dependent on their breed. Small to medium sized breed dogs can be sterilised at about 4 to 6 months old. Large breed dogs should be sterilised at about 9 to 15 months old. This greatly varies with the specific breed of your dog. For breeds such as the burmese mountain dog, neutering is recommended when they reach 2 years old (to reduce the risk of joint disorders in the future). 

Recovery from spay/neuter

1. Keep the wound clean and dry for at least 10 days (or more). No bathing allowed during this period so that the wound has sufficient time to form scabs and heal well. 
2. Monitor for any increased swelling/redness, bleeding and presence of discharge at the wound. Notify your vet immediately. 
3. Monitor activity level, appetite, drinking, urination and stools. No urination for more than 24 hours is an emergency! They should be back to their usual self in a day or two, if not, notify your veterinarian. 
4. Keep them rested and restrict movement to minimise the risk of the wound opening. 
5. E-collar (“cone of shame”) should be kept on to prevent them from scratching/licking the wound. Leave it off only when you are closely monitoring such as during their meal times. 
6. Medications may be prescribed if deemed necessary by your veterinarian. Be diligent in feeding the medications as it can greatly help in wound healing and recovery. 
7. Wound review is highly recommended in 10-14 days, regardless whether absorbable or non-absorbable sutures (need to be removed) are used. 

Will my dog/cat gain weight after sterilisation?

It is estimated that energy requirements decrease by about 25% within weeks of spaying/neutering. So yes, sterilisation may increase the risk of weight gain and obesity, but only if owners continue to feed the same amount of food! 

With proper weight management, sterilised dogs/cats can still maintain a healthy body condition score. Owners would need to control their pet’s calorie intake and output, which means food intake and activity level. 

Each pet is different, just like how we all have different energy requirements and thus amount of food intake. It is encouraged that owners do their due diligence to find the calories requirement for their pet by adjusting the amount of food according to the pet’s weight gain/loss. Once your pet maintains his/her ideal weight and body condition score, stick with that same amount of calories per day. There are also commercial diets available specifically for sterilised dogs/cats (considering they have no other health issues). 

Exercise is also an important factor. Amount of exercise required for your dog/cat depends on their breeds. Some breeds such as labrador retrievers and golden retrievers need more exercise compared to other breeds such as a chihuahua. 

Risks

Although sterilisations are routine procedures, there will still be risks involved. Any procedure involving general anaesthesia will have some risks such as side effects from anaesthetic drugs and other complications. 

In order to minimise the risks, ensure your dog/cat is fasted prior to the procedure to prevent aspiration of gastric contents. Food should be stopped for 8-12 hours and water for 4-6 hours. 

Ensure that your female dog is not on heat or just finished her heat cycle when the spay is planned to be done. The rule of thumb to follow is 2 to 3 months after your female dog’s heat cycle is completed before the spay can be done. This is to prevent excessive bleeding during the procedure. 

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Reference: 

1. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/heartworm-disease-in-dogs
2. https://pets.webmd.com/dogs/deworming-dogs-puppies#1
3. https://icatcare.org/advice/worming-your-cat/
4. https://todaysveterinarynurse.com/articles/starting-strong-puppy-and-kitten-nutrition/#:~:text=Kittens%20have%20a%20higher%20requirement,dogs%20and%2011%20in%20cats 
5. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/feeding-orphaned-puppies 
6. https://www.petmd.com/dog/care/spay-and-neutering-dogs-101-everything-you-need-know